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1. Design & print pattern to size
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I use software called Pattern
Wizard (can be found at www.stainedglasspatterns.com).
This allows me to create the exact size of pattern, number the pieces for
me, and gives me a color "cartoon" to reference.
I create a color version, and at least 2 patterns. One I use on
the layout board (to place my cut pieces) and the other I cut apart.
Most of the time I will print a 3rd on to reference as I'm assembling the
project. |
| 2. Cut apart pattern
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(note: foil shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for
the lead width) |
3. Select desired glass
4. Tape pattern pieces to glass
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After selecting the glass, I tape down the appropriate
pattern pieces to the glass. Some people trace around the pattern, I
find it easier during the grinding process if the pattern is taped to the
glass. |
| 5. Cut pieces apart
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I like my cutter's Mate cutter. It really reduces
fatigue and stress during the cutting process. It has taken approx.
15 minutes up to this point. That includes: printing the patterns,
laminate one with contact paper (so I can use it again), taping the pieces
to the glass, and cutting the glass pieces apart. |
| 6. Glass pieces assembled on layout
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After cutting all the glass pieces, I like to get
"re-organized" and place the pieces in the appropriate place on
the pattern board. This gives me a first-hand glimpse of what it
will look like completed. Now is the time to change your mind with
colors.
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7. Glass piece on grinder surface
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To get the glass piece EXACT - I grind the edges until the
glass is the same size as the pattern. This also eliminates any raw
edge on the glass, so my DNA doesn't appear quite as often (even though
every piece I create gets some - proof it was made here in our
studio!) Don't worry - I clean the blood off before I ship it out!
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8. Assembling the soccer ball
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Assembling the project is the most fun - that's when you
really see it coming together! These pieces are individually wrapped
with copper foil and burnished smooth. The
thing that takes the most time with this project is getting it perfectly
round. It's harder than it sounds...if you have lump, it is
very obvious when it's done. |
| 9. The soldering station
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The next step is to solder all the joints together (on
both the front and back of the panel). The required tools include:
and,
of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!
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| 10. Flux all joints
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Solder will only stick to areas with flux. |
| 11. Apply the solder to joints
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Apply flux, get a dap of
solder on your hot iron, and touch it to the joint. Done! Tack
solder all the joints, then turn the project over and tack solder all
those joints. Let it cool, then solder along all the seams and run a
smooth line of solder along them. When the back is
completed, turn it over and flux & solder the joints on the front -
this time building up the solder lines. |
12. Apply patina
(optional) |
Patina is an acid that can be applied to the lead and
solder to make the project appear to "age" quickly. If
you've seen older copper that has aged and turned green, that's what
patina does. There are a variety of colors, most popular being
black. There is also green, brown, and bright copper. |
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13. Attach clip & night light switch
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Solder the clip onto the back of the soccer ball. Be
sure and position it so it does not interfere with the switch.
Then add the night light with nut and bolt, be sure to
tighten it so it doesn't slop. |
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14. Clean, wax & polish
and display!
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The final step is the cleaning. It's very important
to give it a good cleaning to help stop the patina acid or flux. A wax will
protect it from corrosion that may appear over time. Any carnauba
wax will do, but I prefer the true stained glass wax polish. |
For a custom designed piece, send us an e-mail, fax, or snail mail it with
the desired design and desired colors. Refer to each glass
manufacturer for a sample listing of colors available. We will then
quote you a price for your custom designed glass piece. We will make every
effort possible to match your desired color choices.
