(573) 374-9319 - toll free 1-866-263-9319 |
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(573) 374-9319
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Step-by-step photo's of the project (and comments
from the artist):
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| I use software called Pattern
Wizard (can be found at www.stainedglasspatterns.com).
This allows me to create the exact size of pattern, number the pieces for
me, and gives me a color "cartoon" to reference.
I create a color version, and at least 2 patterns. One I use on the layout board (to place my cut pieces) and the other I cut apart. Most of the time I will print a 3rd on to reference as I'm assembling the project. |
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 2. Cut apart pattern |
(note: foil shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for the lead width) |
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After selecting the glass, I tape down the appropriate pattern pieces to the glass. Some people trace around the pattern, I find it easier during the grinding process if the pattern is taped to the glass. |
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 5. Cut pieces apart |
I like my cutter's Mate cutter. It really reduces fatigue and stress during the cutting process. It has taken approx. 15 minutes up to this point. That includes: printing the patterns, laminate one with contact paper (so I can use it again), taping the pieces to the glass, and cutting the glass pieces apart. |
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 6. Glass pieces assembled on layout |
After cutting all the glass pieces, I like to get "re-organized" and place the pieces in the appropriate place on the pattern board. This gives me a first-hand glimpse of what it will look like completed. Now is the time to change your mind with colors. |
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7. Glass piece on grinder surface |
To get the glass piece EXACT - I grind the edges until the glass is the same size as the pattern. This also eliminates any raw edge on the glass, so my DNA doesn't appear quite as often (even though every piece I create gets some - proof it was made here in our studio!) Don't worry - I clean the blood off before I ship it out! |
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8. Foil Edges |
The pieces are individually wrapped with copper foil and burnished smooth. |
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 9. The soldering station 10. Flux all joints |
The next step is to solder all the joints together (on both the front and back of the panel). The required tools include:
and, of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time! (Solder will only stick to areas with flux.) |
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 Tack solder pieces together
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Apply flux, get a dap of solder on your hot iron, and touch it to the joint. Done! Tack solder all the joints, then turn the project over and tack solder all those joints. Since this is a 3-dimensional item, you need to add support to the body for strength. |
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12. Apply patina |
Patina is an acid that can be applied to the lead and solder to make the project appear to "age" quickly. If you've seen older copper that has aged and turned green, that's what patina does. There are a variety of colors, most popular being black. There is also green, brown, and bright copper. |
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| 13. Attach copper or brass rod |
Solder the copper or brass rod onto the back of the turtle. Be sure and center the rod. |
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14. Clean, wax & polish |
The final step is the cleaning. It's very important to give it a good cleaning to help stop the patina acid or flux. A wax will protect it from corrosion that may appear over time. Any carnauba wax will do, but I prefer the true stained glass wax polish. |
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For a custom designed piece, send us an e-mail, fax, or snail mail it with the desired design and desired colors. Refer to each glass manufacturer for a sample listing of colors available. We will then quote you a price for your custom designed glass piece. We will make every effort possible to match your desired color choices.
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Send mail to webmaster@GlasswithaMission.com with questions or comments about this web site. Copyright © 2002-2008 Glass with a Mission. Prices listed and availability are subject to change. Glass with a Mission 1-866-263-9319 Lake of the Ozarks - Sunrise Beach, Missouri. |
