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1. Create pattern to size
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I got this pattern from the
Book of Fans. Print 3 copies. (one to cut, one for layout, and one
to keep as an original. I also used color pencils to get an
idea of what glass colors to use. |
2. Cut apart pattern
(note: lead shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for
the lead width) |
Since I will be using this pattern again, I
laminated it with contact paper. I used lead shears as this will be
a lead assembly (versus copper foil). I feel lead construction gives
you a more professional and traditional look than the foil copper method
does. I hear there are fewer lead construction artists than copper
foil. Some say it's harder to do than copper foil, I just think it
looks better and is worth the extra effort; I believe in investing
in quality - not quantity. |
3. Select glass |
Selecting the glass is one of the most difficult and
most rewarding. There are literally thousands of different glass
styles and colors available - each with it's own characteristics. I
choose the glass that will compliment the piece it's going into. The
whole aesthetics of the glass piece is controlled by the glass
selected. Sometimes it takes hours to find just the right piece. |
4. Tape pattern pieces to glass
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To prepare cutting the individual glass pieces, I tape
the pattern piece down to the selected color, referring to the sample
printout often. I also decide which way the "grain" of the
glass should run in each piece and lay each pattern down appropriately.
I use double-sided tape to stick the pattern pieces to
the glass for cutting and grinding. I feel I can be more accurate
this way. |
5. Cut pieces apart
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Using a glass cutter (I prefer my nifty Cutter mate),
cut along the pattern. I don't try to get it exact at this
point. Some will argue, but I still like to perfect each piece with
the grinder. |
6. Glass piece on grinder surface
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The grinder enables me to get the piece to the exact
size needed. Some glass artists think you should be able to cut the
glass "perfect". I say it's year 2001, and why not use the
tools available?! I could also dig a hole with a spoon, but I prefer
to use the tool that does the best job.
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7. Glass pieces assembled on layout |
I like to cut all the pieces out at the same time, then
go back individually and clean them up and get them to the exact size with
my grinder. Notice that I still have the pattern taped to each
piece; this will guide me as to what glass needs removed during grinding.
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8. Assembling the piece
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Each piece is articulately cut, ground, and placed onto
the layout - leaving approximately 1/32nd of an inch of tolerance between
the pieces. In other words, each piece has to be cut and
ground to almost perfection.
I build as I go, placing the lead between the pieces,
moving in a down-and-out direction. I have seen artists that cut and
grind all the pieces then go back and place the lead in. I also
believe in sizing it to perfect dimensions. Whether they get framed
or go into a window, I feel having them square is VERY important.
(Beware...some artists aren't so concerning.) |
9. The soldering station |
The next step is to solder all the joints together (on
both the front and back of the panel). The required tools include:
and,
of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!
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10. Flux all joints |
Solder will only stick to the areas that have flux
applied to them. I use a gel flux. I find I can apply it more
carefully than a liquid flux. |
11. Apply the solder to joints
(flux & solder back also)
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With a hot soldering iron, get a small ball of solder
on the tip of the iron and touch it steady to the area to be
soldered. Holding it on the area for a few seconds, then lifting
straight up will result in a smooth flow of solder. Solder all the
joints (it's easier than you think to forget one or two!)
After the
front surface is complete, gently turn the panel over and solder all the
joints on the back side. Clean well with dishwashing soap and baking
soda. The baking soda neutralizes the acid in the flux. |
12. Putty the lead
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The step that solidifies all the pieces together and
makes the window water-tight is the putty process. It's messy,
smelly, and is great for removing stress! An oil-based putty is
spread out over the panel and using a scrub brush in a circular motion,
lightly "push" the putty under the lead. To absorb the
extra putty, I use wood shavings left over from our furniture making.
Let it setup for 24-48 hours. The longer, the
better - remember, the putty is oil based and it does smell. |
| optional 14.
Apply patina |
This step is optional. This is where I would apply a patina (acid that changes the color of the
lead) if the client wants it. Colors available include: copper,
black, brown, or green. |
15. Clean, wax & polish |
The final step is cleaning and polishing. GOOD
'OLE ELBOW GREASE! Clean with a soft cloth and remove any unwanted
extra putty with wooden skewers or toothpicks, etc. Apply a stained
glass wax or a good car wax that contains carnauba oil. This will
reduce chemical reactions and chalky buildup that happens when pieces
don't get cleaned well enough or is exposed to pollutants. |
For a custom designed piece, send us an e-mail, fax, or snail mail it with
the desired design and desired colors. Refer to each glass
manufacturer for a sample listing of colors available. We will then
quote you a price for your custom designed glass piece. We will make every
effort possible to match your desired color choices.
