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Quilt Patch
in Glass

Glass Artist:  Sandy Johnson

Project Details 

• Size: 
  8" x 8"

• 32 pieces

• Lead construction

This is a very fun project, because I receive photographs (and sometimes the actual quilt) of heirloom quilts and am asked to reproduce them in glass.  I've made:

•  Sun catchers

• Table top panels

• Quilt racks with glass quilt insets that match the quilt being hung

• Entry doors with matching quilt glass

Quilt Patches / Matches

I've had the opportunity to create beautiful works of art from other works of art...Quilts!

Custom designs are available - call me - I'd love to design one for your home!

1.  Create pattern to size

I create a color version, and at least 2 patterns.  One I use on the layout board (to place my cut pieces) and the other I cut apart.  Most of the time I will print a 3rd on to reference as I'm assembling the project.

     
2.  Cut apart pattern 

I stayed with the "country" colors of blues, mauve, and used clear glue-chip glass also.

After selecting the glass, I tape down the appropriate pattern pieces to the glass.  Some people trace around the pattern, I find it easier during the grinding process if the pattern is taped to the glass.

I like my cutter's Mate cutter.  It really reduces fatigue and stress during the cutting process.  It has taken approx. an hour up to this point.  That includes: printing the patterns, laminate one with contact paper (so I can use it again), taping the pieces to the glass, and cutting the glass pieces apart.

After cutting all the glass pieces, I like to get "re-organized" and place the pieces in the appropriate place on the pattern board.  This gives me a first-hand glimpse of what it will look like completed.  Now is the time to change your mind with colors.

7.  Glass piece on grinder surface

To get the glass piece EXACT - I grind the edges until the glass is the same size as the pattern.  This also eliminates any raw edge on the glass, so my DNA doesn't appear quite as often (even though every piece I create gets some - proof it was made here in our studio!)  Don't worry - I clean the blood off before I ship it out!

8.  Assembling the panel

Assembling the project is the most fun - that's when you really see it coming together!

The next step is to solder all the joints together (on both the front and back of the panel).  The required tools include:

• Soldering iron

• Rheostat (temperature control)

• Flux & brush

• Solder

and, of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!

Solder will only stick to areas with flux.  

  
  
12.  Apply the solder to joints

One big advantage of creating a project with lead is fact that soldering is very quick and easy.  Apply flux, get a dap of solder on your hot iron, and touch it to the joint.  Done!  Unlike the tedious task of laying down a smooth solder line along foiled projects (or should I say - trying to lay down a smooth line).

13.  Putty the lead

OK - I admit it.  If you've been looking at the other projects, you'll notice none of them have the putty pictures yet.  It's kind-of (a lot) messy, and I usually collect a whole slew of projects, then putty them all at the same time.  It's like working with tar, so I plan a day of it.  

Sorry - I apparently didn't take a picture of puttying the quilt block - I must have been up to my elbows in black gook.  It's all the same, though.

14.  Apply patina

Patina is an acid that can be applied to the lead and solder to make the project appear to "age" quickly.  If you've seen older copper that has aged and turned green, that's what patina does.  There are a variety of colors, most popular being black.  There is also green, brown, and bright copper.

15.  Clean, wax & polish
and display!

The final step is the cleaning.  It's very important to give it a good cleaning to help stop the patina acid and a wax will protect it from corrosion that may appear over time.  Any carnauba wax will do, but I prefer the true stained glass polish.