(573) 374-9319 - toll free 1-866-263-9319 |
|
|
|
|
|
| ||||
|
(573) 374-9319
|
Step-by-step photo's of the project (and comments
from the artist):
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I designed this prairie-style top to correlate to our mission-style coffee tables. I used Pattern Wizard software to adjust pattern to 12"x24". Print 2 copies. | ||
2. Prep layout board
|
One copy is used on the layout board, and the other is used to cut apart for pattern pieces on glass. I also print out a miniature version to refer to for both glass color and assembly. | |
| 3. Cut apart pattern (note: lead shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for the lead width)
|
Since I will be using this pattern again, I laminated it with contact paper. I used lead shears as this will be a lead assembly (versus copper foil). I feel lead construction gives you a more professional and traditional look than the foil copper method does. I hear there are fewer lead construction artists than copper foil. Some say it's harder to do than copper foil, I just think it looks better and is worth the extra effort; I believe in investing in quality - not quantity. | |
| 4. Select glass |
Selecting the glass is one of the most difficult and most rewarding. There are literally thousands of different glass styles and colors available - each with it's own characteristics. I choose the glass that will compliment the piece it's going into. The whole aesthetics of the glass piece is controlled by the glass selected. Sometimes it takes hours to find just the right piece. |
|
5. Tape pattern pieces to glass
|
To prepare cutting the individual glass pieces, I tape the pattern piece down to the selected color, referring to the sample printout often. I also decide which way the "grain" of the glass should run in each piece and lay each pattern down appropriately. I use double-sided tape to stick the pattern pieces to the glass for cutting and grinding. I feel I can be more accurate this way. |
|
| 6. Cut pieces apart |
Using a glass cutter (I prefer my nifty Cutter mate), cut along the pattern. I don't try to get it exact at this point. Some will argue, but I still like to perfect each piece with the grinder. |
|
| 7. Glass pieces assembled on layout |
I like to cut all the pieces out at the same time, then go back individually and clean them up and get them to the exact size with my grinder. Notice that I still have the pattern taped to each piece; this will guide me as to what glass needs removed during grinding. |
|
| 8. Glass piece on grinder surface |
The grinder enables me to get the piece to the exact size needed. Some glass artists think you should be able to cut the glass "perfect". I say it's year 2001, and why not use the tools available?! I could also dig a hole with a spoon, but I prefer to use the tool that does the best job. |
|
9. Assembling the panel
|
Each piece is articulately cut, ground, and placed onto the layout - leaving approximately 1/32nd of an inch of tolerance between the pieces. In other words, each piece has to be cut and ground to almost perfection. I build as I go, placing the lead between the pieces, moving in a down-and-out direction. I have seen artists that cut and grind all the pieces then go back and place the lead in. I also believe in sizing it to perfect dimensions. Whether they get framed or go into a window, I feel having them square is VERY important. (Beware...some artists aren't so concerning.) |
|
| 10. The soldering station |
The next step is to solder all the joints together (on both the front and back of the panel). The required tools include:
and, of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time! |
|
| 11. Flux all joints |
Solder will only stick to the areas that have flux applied to them. I use a gel flux. I find I can apply it more carefully than a liquid flux. |
|
| 12. Apply the solder to joints
|
With a hot soldering iron, get a small ball of solder on the tip of the iron and touch it steady to the area to be soldered. Holding it on the area for a few seconds, then lifting straight up will result in a smooth flow of solder. Solder all the joints (it's easier than you think to forget one or two!) After the front surface is complete, gently turn the panel over and solder all the joints on the back side. Clean well with dishwashing soap and baking soda. The baking soda neutralizes the acid in the flux.
|
|
13. Putty the lead
lines
|
The step that solidifies all the pieces together and makes the window water-tight is the putty process. It's messy, smelly, and is great for removing stress! An oil-based putty is spread out over the panel and using a scrub brush in a circular motion, lightly "push" the putty under the lead. To absorb the extra putty, I use wood shavings left over from our furniture making. Let it setup for 24-48 hours. The longer, the better - remember, the putty is oil based and it does smell. |
|
|
14. Apply patina optional |
This step is optional. |
|
|
15. Clean, wax & polish
|
The final step is cleaning and polishing. GOOD 'OLE ELBOW GREASE! Clean with a soft cloth and remove any unwanted extra putty with wooden skewers or toothpicks, etc. Apply a stained glass wax or a good car wax that contains carnauba oil. This will reduce chemical reactions and chalky buildup that happens when pieces don't get cleaned well enough or is exposed to pollutants. |
|
For a custom designed piece, send us an e-mail, fax, or snail mail it with the desired design and desired colors. Refer to each glass manufacturer for a sample listing of colors available. We will then quote you a price for your custom designed glass piece. We will make every effort possible to match your desired color choices.
|
Send mail to webmaster@GlasswithaMission.com with questions or comments about this web site. Copyright © 2002-2009 Glass with a Mission. Prices listed and availability are subject to change. Glass with a Mission 1-866-263-9319 Lake of the Ozarks - Sunrise Beach, Missouri. |
