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Custom Panel:
 Celestial

Glass Artist:  Sandy Johnson

Project Details 

• Panel Size: 34" x 36"

• 157 pieces 

• 1/4" Zinc border

• Lead construction

• Custom design initially taken from rug

• Custom mahogany frame

This window panel is being custom made for Cyndi  for her home.  Thank you, Cyndi!

Design created from rug

computer image of design

finished product

1.  Create final designs

One full-size copy is used on the layout board, and the other is used to cut apart for pattern pieces on glass and the third is to refer to and keep as an original.  

  
     
3.  Cut apart pattern 
(note: lead shears are used to leave exact spacing between the pieces for the lead width)

It seems like this takes forever to get done - after this it starts coming together quickly.  For a glass artist, the prep is always the longest - I guess we just can't wait to get to cutting!

Selecting the glass is one of the most difficult and most rewarding.  There are literally thousands of different glass styles and colors available - each with it's own characteristics.  Cyndi choose colors  that will compliment the decor & match her rug.  The whole aesthetics of the glass piece is controlled by the glass selected.  Sometimes it takes hours to find just the right pieces.

To prepare cutting the individual glass pieces, I tape the pattern piece down to the selected color, referring to the sample printout often.  I also decide which way the "grain" of the glass should run in each piece and lay each pattern down appropriately.  I use double-sided tape to stick the pattern pieces to the glass for cutting and grinding.  I feel I can be more accurate this way.

Using a glass cutter (I prefer my nifty Cutter mate), cut along the pattern following the pattern as close as possible. I Later, I will perfect each piece with the grinder.

I like to cut all the pieces out at the same time, then go back individually and clean them up and get them to the exact size with my grinder.  Notice that I still have the pattern taped to each piece; this will guide me as to what glass needs removed during grinding.

The grinder enables me to get the piece to the exact size needed.  I am a perfectionist, and work that way. 

 
 


Cut pieces on layout table

Each piece is articulately cut, ground, and placed onto the layout - leaving approximately 1/32nd of an inch of tolerance between the pieces.    In other words, each piece has to be cut and ground to perfection.

I believe in sizing it to perfect dimensions.  Whether they get framed or go into a window, I feel having them square is VERY important.  (Beware...some artists aren't so concerning.)  

You should leave 1/8" all the way around.  This panel will have a custom mahogany frame made for it.  

9.  Assembling the panel

This is the time-consuming part.  A piece of lead is cut & placed between each piece and held into place with horseshoe nails.   If the pieces weren't cut perfect, they either are modified or re-cut.  Perfection is required for every step of the project.  If you try to fudge, it will only be amplified along the way causing all sorts of problems.

It's also very important that each piece is assembled in  the proper sequence.  One piece must be put in before the next - building in a down & out fashion.  If you don't do this, you may not be able to get a piece in and must disassemble the panel to get it in place.  WARNING: THIS IS VERY HARD ON FINGERTIPS!

The next step is to solder all the joints together (on both the front and back of the panel).  The required tools include:

• Soldering iron

• Rheostat (temperature control)

• Flux & brush

• Solder

and, of course, safety glasses are worn 100% of the time!

10.  Flux all joints

Solder will only stick to the areas that have flux applied to them.  I use a gel flux.  I find I can apply it more carefully than a liquid flux without the sizzle from a liquid flux. 

With a hot soldering iron, get a small ball of solder on the tip of the iron and touch it steady to the area to be soldered.  Holding it on the area for a few seconds, then lifting straight up will result in a smooth flow of solder.  Solder all the joints (it's easier than you think to forget one or two!)  After the front surface is complete, gently turn the panel over and solder all the joints on the back side.  Clean well with dishwashing soap and baking soda.  (The baking soda neutralizes the acid in the flux.)

13.  Putty the lead lines

The step that solidifies all the pieces together and makes the window water-tight is the putty process.  It's messy, smelly, and is great for removing stress!  An oil-based putty is spread out over the panel and using a scrub brush in a circular motion, lightly "push" the putty under the lead.  To absorb the extra putty, I use wood shavings left over from our furniture making.

Let it setup for 24-48 hours.  The longer, the better - remember, the putty is oil based and it does smell.  Once the putty has hardened, use a small wooden skewer  (kabob stick) to clean the extra putty from around the lead.

15.  Clean, wax & polish

OK - some of you have been asking for this - a picture of me with a project.  Enjoy - the next one will be next year!

The final step is cleaning and polishing.  GOOD 'OLE ELBOW GREASE!  Clean with a soft cloth and remove any unwanted extra putty with wooden skewers or toothpicks, etc.  Apply a stained glass wax or a good car wax that contains carnauba oil.  This will reduce chemical reactions and chalky buildup that happens when pieces don't get cleaned well enough or is exposed to pollutants.